Suit shopping is often one of men’s biggest style challenges. Shopping off the rack is budget-friendly but can be hard to find a perfect fit. And once you’ve taken your pick to a tailor, the alterations needed often blow your wardrobe budget altogether.
That’s why many guys turn to custom suiting. In recent years, more and more affordable options are popping up, with companies like Indochino, J.Hilburn, and Alton Lane offering made-to-measure suits at a fraction of what it used to cost to get a suit made just for you. Even if you suit up only a couple times a year, it’s worth investing in a suit..and yourself.
8 things to remember when shopping for your first custom suit:
1. Wear snug fitting clothing to your appointment.
For measurements as accurate as possible, tight fitting clothing is key. If you have things in your pockets, remove them before the measuring tape comes out.
2. Skip the functioning button hole option on the sleeves.
Even though functioning button holes scream style, it’s not wise to have your first MTM suit created with them. Why? Because it is a very costly alteration, and with your first custom suit, you’ll still probably need some tweaks to get everything just right. Lengthening or shortening sleeves on non-functioning button sleeves is quite quick and inexpensive to have done. So save this feature for your second MTM suit (making sure whoever created your first one accounts for the alterations in the second one). Once your measurements are locked in, you can customize to your heart’s desire.
3. It’s better to be too big than too small.
If you’re measuring yourself (with the help of a friend, of course), ensure the tape measure is not held too closely to the body, and if you’re in between numbers, round up rather than down. Remember: It is always easier to take things in than to let things out.
4. Go for a versatile, season-agnostic style.
While you may be presented with a seemingly endless supply of swatches to choose from, stay simple with your first suit. You are going to want to wear this bad boy as much as possible, so choose a fabric and color that are classic and versatile. I’d recommend navy blue or dark grey in a medium weight fabric.
5. Know the difference between half canvassed, fully canvassed and fused suits.
Most of the time when you’re having your suit made, you’ll have the option of having it canvassed or fused. The main difference here is going to be how long the suit lasts and how it lays on your body. Although more expensive, a canvassed suit is going to lay nicer on your body, allow for more movement, and will last longer as the fabrics are not fused (glued) together, and are less likely to deteriorate with dry cleaning or bubble when wet.
6. Do your research!
Finding a maker who has good reviews is important. Another thing to look for is a company that will reimburse you for some or all alteration costs is key (many do up to a certain amount). It is quite likely that a few adjustments will have to be made to the suit once you receive it, some of which might be costly. For example, if the shoulders and/or the body needs to be taken it, it will be more expensive than if the sleeves, waist or pant hem need to be adjusted.
7. Keep track of all adjustments made to the suit.
If you intend on ordering another, it is wise to make note of anything you changed on the first so that your second has a higher chance of coming back perfect!
8. Manage your expectations.
For the most part, a custom suit is going to fit you better than an off-the-rack-suit when you first try it on, simply because it was made for you. Do expect to have to have minor alterations made, however. Simple pant or sleeve length adjustments are common, and if the suit company’s idea of ‘slim fit’ does not align with yours, you may have to have the pants tapered.
Want more ideas to conquer your closet? Read how to rock a khaki suit and ways to wear drawstring shorts.
Very true that it’s easier to take things in than it is to let them out, but there’s nothing worse than a guy swimming in a suit.
Josh | The Kentucky Gent
https://thekentuckygent.com
Could not agree more!
its very important to decide on fabric first and foremost which is why i would avoid the online options. if you’re going to spend the money, you should see someone in person. keep in mind that the finished product will be a shade or so lighter than the swatch since it will reflect light and be over a larger surface. i would also suggest buying the highest quality fabric you can afford (which doesn’t necessarily mean a higher thread count).
i also had a friend who bought a m2m suit when he was training for a marathon and he was down about 20 lbs from his ‘normal’ weight. needless to say, big mistake. so another thing to consider is purchasing when you have maintained a ‘normal weight’ or wait until you get to a weight you prefer to be.
lastly, for those wanting to spend the money but can only get 1 suit, i would highly recommend a charcoal grey suit versus the navy suit that nearly everyone suggests as the ‘first suit’. a grey suit is ideal for the job interview (it’ll stand out a bit from the sea of navy), it works for a wedding or a funeral and it can even be used as black tie in a pinch. and since you have a navy blazer already (you have a navy blazer right??!!) the grey trousers from the suit can be worn with the navy blazer as a great ‘separate suit’. much more versatile than a navy and the charcoal wears a bit cleaner and crisper than a navy from my experience.
I agree it’s always best to meet in person so the measurements are most accurate..it’s just not always a possibility for people living in smaller towns/cities
Who would’ve know that what was supposed to be a ‘convenient’ experience could be such a challenge! Really agree about having things too big rather than too small though..that’s probably the golden nugget from this article.
DJ- http://www.tailormade-style.com
Well, it gets more convenient the more you do it 🙂 After awhile, all you’re doing is picking out swatches and “one vent or two..”
I got a suit years ago at Indochino and it has worked out well at the time. The pants were defiitely a bit wide but I got them tailored. My problem is that I didn’t realize how dress trouserswere supposed to fit at the time so I think I got the pants a bit short. I didn’t realize that you are supposed to wear them higher than chinos or jeans, probably because that is what I see most guys do. This article is good advice for first timers.
Thanks for weighing in, TJ! Have you had any more suits made since that first one?
No, I’ve found that I don’t have much need for a suit so I’ve focused mostly on odd trousers and jackets. That seems to fit more into my style anyway.
I had a custom suit made by Indochino maybe 5-6 years ago when they first started. Was not happy with the first suit they sent me (where they adjusted the measurements I provided them) and the second suit fit better, but I wasn’t blown away by the overall quality.
Had a navy tuxedo made by Dragon Inside and was much more pleased with it. Quality was much better and I look forward to every opportunity I have to wear a tux!!
Unfortunately, while I’ve thought about getting another MTM suit made, I’m perfectly happy with buying a Ludlow from J Crew and having it tailored a bit. The quality seems much better than what I’ve tried elsewhere.
Hey, whatever works! Some guys have really big issues buying off the rack, but if a Ludlow works for your body type, more power to you, Matt!
I just bought a new suit and shopped off the rack vs custom, but did not consider mtm online. I ended up at the Boss store with a beauty that needed very minor taking in on the jacket. I guess I got lucky!
Well done!
My husband has used Indochino twice, once for a winter dress coat and once for a tuxedo. Both times we had serious issues and the item had to be remade. With the coat, they didn’t adjust the measurements to take into account that it was outerwear, to be worn OVER a suit. With the tux, they didn’t account for the fact that people wear French cuffs with a tuxedo, and the sleeve opening was too narrow. *headdesk* In their defense, the second time they made each garment, it was fine, but it was a lot of hassle.
We had a significantly better experience visiting an actual tailor (Rocky’s in Sherman Oaks, CA). We bought three M2M suits and three M2M shirts. They are magnificently made and look great on my husband. I think he even carries himself differently when he’s wearing one of his M2M suits. He has a number of off-the-rack suits as well, but M2M is worth the money to get a better fit and overall style.
Great to hear you found an option you’re both happy with!
great tips! Some of these things have to be communicated with the maker before the suit hits the factory. Places like Indochino are {for the most part} machine run, and a machine doesn’t consider these small details, even though the tux situation seems to be quite obvious. Another thing to consider when getting custom shirts is making the sleeve opening slightly larger on the side the watch is worn.
Indochino is HORRIBLE! I ordered a suit there as well and the quality and fit is very bad. All of there stuff is machine made
Oof, sounds like you had a less-than-great experience, John. Were you able to get your money refunded for the suit that wasn’t up to your standards?
Oof, sounds like you had a less-than-great experience, John. Were you able to get your money refunded for the suit that wasn’t up to your standards?
such perfect timing before my boyfriend tries custom suits for the first time! i just sent him this post. 🙂
-lexi, http://www.tryscratch.com
You’ll have to let us know what he ends up going with, Lexi!
I have 3 MTM pieces and for all 3 I went with having someone measure me. In all cases I am pretty happy (even if I wasn’t at first) as nothing looks better as something done expressly for you. However Samuelsohn jackets fit me almost perfectly off the rack so I am always keeping an eye out for them.